When I say the only other person I know who traveled in Georgia that we go to this beautiful country, one of his many suggestions was to set aside time to walk in Old Tbilisi to soak in the architecture in ruins and iconic Tbilisi balconies. So when our guide Anna offered to take us on an old hiking Tbilisi to see Art Nouveau architecture, we immediately said yes.
We were surprised to learn that there were more tourists in Tbilisi to see just what is visible from the street. If we had not had a guide, we would have never known that additional treasures held within the inputs of these Art Nouveau houses. (Also, in case your knowledge of architectural styles is as small as mine, Art Nouveau is an architectural style and design with linear and curved designs that were popular from the late 19th century until World War II) as many of them are now residential buildings, it is sometimes possible to pass in hallways where some still retain their richly painted ceilings, intricate metalwork staircase, and even as wall decorations well.
We first visited a curved building with interesting metal work covering the windows on Rustaveli Avenue just southeast of Vano Sarajishvili Street. But this was not our destination.
We walked behind the building and found a secluded courtyard to the middle block with an aqua-president home on the small remains of a garden with a fountain and statues. Most of the houses along the Rustaveli Avenue were destroyed, but it was saved because the son of the family acted as physician to Stalin and asked for the house to be saved from destruction . The family still lives in the house today and it is an example of how these old houses can be restored to continue standing for another century.
We continued passing through the block, walking through hidden courtyards surrounded by more modern and functional balconies paneled in wood, some locked, some with clothes hanging from the line until the block emptied of Alexander Griboyedov Street. Heading southeast, we spent the Tbilisi State Academy of Arts and continued to watch the crumbling facades until we reached No. 14 Alexander Griboyedov Street. This house was built by an Armenian man with a fish business successfully. The residence has two entrances because he used on the floor of his house and rented the first level.
While gawking at and take pictures of the ceiling painted inside, something unprecedented occurred. Two women who live in the building came in and asked if we wanted to come inside their home and see what the rooms looked like inside! Anna said it occurs, even if the Georgians are known for their hospitality. They might have thought we were the foreign investors who might be able to help restore the building, or perhaps they might just say we were really fascinated by the building they call home. The sumptuous decoration, like carved wood trim painted with pastels and gold, which remains intact in their apartment is beautiful. They said their apartment was originally a guest room or entertainment room that held just a piano. Now, the rooms of what was once a residence for a family are separated into several apartments.
Our next Art Nouveau gateway along our hiking Old Tbilisi was in the street at No. 15 Alexander Griboyedov Street. It was originally the house of an Armenian businessman specializing in French wine.
We diverted course and headed back towards the main street of Tbilisi, Rustaveli Avenue. Lesia Ukrainka Street and between Zakaria Chichinadze Street is an important institution in Tbilisi, Tbilisi Classical Gymnasium. The Tbilisi Classic Gymnasium is one of the oldest educational institutions Georgia.
Just off Tbilisi Classical Gymnasium is the former Parliament of Georgia. The Parliament of Georgia is now in Kutaisi, but the old Parliament building in Tbilisi remains. This building was built after the Art Nouveau period. In front of the Parliament building is April 9 memorial, which commemorates the tragedy that took place on the steps of Parliament on April 9, 1989. That day, an anti-Soviet demonstration was held. When it was dispersed by the Soviet Army, 20 people were killed and hundreds more were injured. Today is April 9 a national holiday, the National Day Unity.
We continued down Rustaveli Avenue until we reached Freedom Square, a large roundabout that surrounds the shiny gold statue of St. George. From there we drove to Giorgi Leonidze Street, used to be known as the hot street because both sides of the street were always sunny no matter the time of day. This is the case today, however.
This is the beginning of Sololaki District, which used to have a water system used to water the gardens. An hour watering would cost a denarius. In the mid 19th century, the Russians blocked the waterways and makes the region dry. District Sololaki land has become very expensive and European-style buildings designed by the most Georgian, Russian and Armenian architects were erected in this part of Tbilisi, mostly between 1880 and 1910. The District was also called Sololaki little Paris because the streets are set up in a grid pattern rather than curving and winding in every direction as in other parts Tbilisi.
Turn your eyes up to 3 Giorgi Leonidze Street, which used to house the Tbilisi Credit Union. An outside Armenian architect decorated with Pluto and Mercury. A third floor was added in Soviet times, but fortunately, this addition does not change the original decorative aspect of the building.
A few doors we entered No. 8 Giorgi Leonidze Street. It looks like a standard external drug store. The previous occupant of this building needed to repay debt then entered the Russian army. For his service in the war with Turkey in 1878, it was given as a gift the building. He had always wanted to be a pharmacist, pharmacy and became very popular. Today its original pharmacy cabinets are still standing, but now they are filled with Nestlé. Opposite the pharmacy is an unusual looking building, even for the old Tbilisi. With the oval entrance with its sunflower façade used as women glove manufacturer shop.
I do not know the story behind No. 9 Geronti Kikodze Street, but I like metalwork of the curving staircase. This is one of the brightest of the entrances to the old Tbilisi. The walls were painted solid colors, but the artfully painted ceiling remains, but it is hanging by a thread as it is cracked, with small sections looking like they could fall on the floor at all second.
Heading deeper into the district Sololaki, we arrived at No. 58 Lado Asatiani Street. Outside the building is well preserved, with its reddish brown brick walls, door and arched windows and curved balconies framed with iron railings. Wooden door is a work of art with lion heads scattered among the iron rollers. As we walked through the doors we were greeted by "burst" which means welcome in Latin, integrated into the cracked tile floor. This gateway is very colorful with green painted walls scratched and graffitied. The coat painted ceiling is a dynamic combination of coral, blue, yellow, and white with a mix of flowers, swans, urns, and evil-looking figures with horns, wings and tail, some games trumpets.
When we entered the gates of 4 Daniel Chonqadze Street, we were greeted by a dark entry with seemingly endless flights of stairs heading upwards. This house looks down all the other houses around and has two entrances, one from the street above and the street. While the lower half is strictly graffitied white walls, as we climbed the stairs, we met murals and painted ceilings damaged water. We went out a door at the top that led to a small hidden garden. The outside is different from the surrounding architecture Tbilisi as it has more of an English Tudor look.
No. 13 Ivane Machabeli Street is another house Art Nouveau Old Tbilisi restored to its previous glory. The construction of the house was commissioned by David Sarajishvili , awarded a Georgian brandy producer, patron and philanthropist who lived in the residence from 105 to 1911. The German architect Carl Zaar directed the construction and Georgian architect Alexander Ozerov and Korneli Tatishev. The house later changed hands to Akaki Khoshtaria , an entrepreneur, philanthropist and famous public figure, who lived there from 1918 to 1921.
Today it is House of Writers of Georgia , an open space for the Georgian culture. When we visited they were still restore to the floor, but they let us walk through the rooms on the ground floor. The outdoor garden has beautiful tiles and has a screen showing old pictures of how the parts used to look. The garden is also an example of how Tbilisians moved outside their signature balconies of their houses with courtyards to comply with European design during the Art Nouveau period.
On the even side of Galaktion Tabidze Street (I do not see a number, but it could be 20) we entered a unique dark portico of the others we had seizures because of the paintings on the walls. Unfortunately, they have seen better times. You can see the vibrant colors peeking through the darkness. In Soviet times, the paintings were covered with lacquer to preserve them from destruction, but unfortunately it damaged the paintings. Paintings, painted by a Jewish artist, represent another region in the world. The first, of course, is Russia, and others include Africa, America, Asia and Europe. Most of the walls and ceiling paintings section stairs survived as well.
Our last stop on our old Tbilisi architecture walking tour was about a block against Jerusalimi street at No. 4-6 Betlemi Street. As you can see street names, the Jewish quarter of the Old Tbilisi and it is a typical Jewish wooden house with a covered outdoor entrance with stained glass windows and a wraparound balcony decorated with lattice lace.
Many Tbilisi old Art Nouveau buildings are protected as historic structures. However, they can not be restored relatively quickly. Some are on the verge of crumbling and some have already collapsed. Hopefully these architectural treasures will be preserved and restored, but just in case, make sure to visit these relics adorned the past while can.
Of course, you can do your own walking tour of Old Tbilisi and use it as a guide (hope my frantic note taking was enough to make you places to right) or create your own tour and look in buildings that peak your interest. But if you want to be guided by an expert of old Tbilisi and its Art Nouveau architecture and learn the stories behind the buildings, you may want to hire a guide. You can try to book a Tbilisi old hiking with our guide Anna Koripadze (anakoripadze@yahoo.com) or, if available, it may suggest another guide for you. What I know for sure is that once you have a taste of what these old buildings hiding look in every open entrance you spend with the hope of finding a new treasure.
Thank you to Georgian National Tourism Administration for hosting our trip to Georgia and making it possible position. As always, all opinions are my own.
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